Espresso Boarding: Transylvania
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Transylvania, Romania:
Dracula, Hiking, and Fine Wine
Transylvania is not a city or a county but a historical region located in central Romania that is famous for being the home of Vlad of Impaler - the origin of Dracula!
You can choose your ideal itinerary based on your desire for Adventure, Culture, or Relaxation. These itineraries are handy to bookmark - a blister or torn muscle may convert your Adventure plans into Relaxation plans. Let’s have fun.
- Cris
ADVENTURE!
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brașov Old Town Walk | Piatra Craiului National Park | Transfăgărășan to Balea | Creepy Old Buildings |
Day 1: Brașov Old Town Walk
Black Church
Head to the Black Church (Biserica Neagră) in the center of Brasov. Construction began in the 14th Century (and taking 100 years to complete), the Black Church was commissioned to prove to the world that the citizens of Corona were important, successful people. This was the original Instagram status symbol. As merchants traveled among towns, you could hear them casually say ‘have you seen the new church they are building in Corona? I hear the pope sent them money.’ And it worked. People talked, people gawked, and people moved there.
Mount Tampa
Strap on your boots and hike up Mount Tampa to the Hollywood-esque Brasov sign. You are hiking through the Carpathian Mountains, and it’s almost Halloween, so let your imagination wander. What was that sound? The hike itself takes roughly an hour, and your reward is the ability to look down on Brasov and see the entire city.
Via Ferrata or Canyoning
You are at the top of the National Park. How do you get down? You could walk (boring) but most people via ferrata or canyon back down the limestone walls. Your choice is based on skill level. Have no experience? Take the via ferrata, which means “iron path” and is essentially a series of ladders and ropes that are already secured to the side of the mountain wall. I can’t stop laughing that is considered the beginner level. The advanced level is to rappel down the wall using your own skills to secure the anchors.
Day 2: Piatra Craiului National Park
Piatra Craiului National Park
Hiking the 25 KM (~15.5 miles) long rocky mountain range called Piatra Craiului is loved by Romanian outdoor enthusiasts as it has plenty of climbing on large limestone crags. It gets really crowded on beautiful summer days so mountain climbing rather than hiking is recommended. Are those brown bears? Yep. You are walking through wilderness and people do get hurt every week. The phrase “bear-infested” is used to caution people that you aren’t in Central Park. You’re here for Adventure, right?
Day 3: Transfăgărășan to Balea
Drive the Transfăgărășan
Rent a 4×4 (or hire a Guide) because we are going to drive the Transfăgărășan! One of the most spectacular roads in the world, offering stunning mountain vistas, hairpin turns, and suspension bridges. Rev that engine but watch out for bears, lynx, and people who unexpectedly enter the road. Do you travel with someone who hates how you drive? Leave them at the hotel because this is an absolute delight.
Balea Waterfall
Hike around the glacial Balea Lake. With heights that exceed 2,000 metres (6,561 feet), the Făgăraș Mountains are perfect if you like hiking. Several hiking routes start from Bâlea Lake, going towards the mountains’ peaks and dramatic valleys. Following the marked trails, you can reach their highest peak, Moldoveanu, at 2,544 metres (8,346 feet) in a nine-hour hike or the second highest, Negoiu, at 2,535 metres (8,316 feet) in a five-hour hike. Or head a short distance to the Balea Waterfall and capture beautiful photos.
Rasnov Fortress
What self-respecting Impaler would have a Castle but no Fortress? Exactly. Strategically located on the commercial route linking the provinces of Transylvania and Walachia, Râşnov differs from other Saxon fortresses in that it was designed as a place of refuge over extended periods of time. As such, it had at least 30 houses, a school, a chapel and other buildings more commonly associated with a village.
The defensive system included nine towers, two bastions and a drawbridge. Any house with a drawbridge seems appealing to me. Surrounded by 500-foot-slopes on the north, south and west sides, the fortress was obliged to surrender only once, in the year 1612 when invaders managed to find the secret route that supplied the people inside the fortress with water. With the location of their water supply no longer a secret, the need for a well inside the fortress became a must. When it reopens, following renovation, set aside a few hours to explore the tunnels and secret passages. People often become hopefully lost and need help to find their way out. Good luck!
Day 4: Creepy Old Buildings
Bran Castle (Dracula’s Castle)
It’s 1448 and you are sitting at the pub. “Who bought the castle?” you ask the guy next to you. “Some joker who calls himself ‘Vlad the Impaler.’ What a clown.” And then, Vlad murders several hundred people in your town to settle an argument. Vlad is quickly dispatched far away to defend the border. Be careful whom you mock! This castle is the basis for every movie you have seen about Dracula. It’s real. When booking your tickets, note that entry to the torture chambers are an extra fee. Seriously. They throw a Halloween party here that sells out years in advance.
CULTURE!
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Public Shaming and the Start of The Christmas Season | Dracula and A Saint | Fire and The Birthplace of The Devil | Dearly Departed and Lies |
Day 1: Public Shaming and the Start of The Christmas Season
Council Square (Piața Sfatului)
Head to the Council Square to get caught up on town business. The houses around the square tell a spooky history. In the middle of the square there is a pillory, which was used for public humiliation, punishment and contempt. Women who constantly argued with each other were placed up there until they worked it out and stopped the arguing. Witches were punished here, and Stefan Stenert, head of the shoemakers' guild who opposed the entry of the Austrian team into Brasov, was beheaded here in 1688. The phrase ‘go along to get along’ seems appropriate.
St. Nicholas Church
The Romanian tradition is that St. Nicholas comes with gifts on the night between December 5 and December 6. He places the gifts in everyone's recently polished boots, except for those who have been naughty - they receive a whip or a stick instead, as punishment. Children put out their largest pair of boots in hopes of receiving great presents. St. Nicholas Church is stunningly beautiful, which seems fitting for the Saint tasked with kicking off the holiday season each year. Inside are murals of Romania’s last king and queen, covered by plaster to protect them from communist leaders and uncovered in 2004.
Day 2: Dracula and A Saint
Bran Castle (aka Dracula’s Castle)
We’re in Transylvania to pay homage (joking) to the story of Dracula by Bram Stoker. The Bran Castle became famous because it had the ‘right look’ for film crews in the area who made the initial Dracula movie. Throw in the history that Vlad the Impaler briefly owned the castle and voila! Instant celebrity status. You are in the Carpathian Mountains, which are legitimately spooky, with fantastic views. Pack a jacket because the chill sets in deep when touring the Castle. Especially in the dungeons (not joking).
Church of St. Michael
If you wanted to build the second largest Church in Romania, how do you pay for it? With Indulgences, of course. Indulgences were a little piece of paper in the 14th century that essentially gave you forgiveness for your sins in exchange for money, and were how the town paid to build the Church of St. Michael. This practice is not as common today because people struggle to believe that you can buy your way into heaven. Times change. We also are not building many large Cathedrals or Churches anymore (this does not count the renovations or continued constructions of project such as La Sagrada Familia).
Day 3: Fire and The Birthplace of The Devil
Sighișoara Citadel
Sighișoara Citadel is your time machine back to the Medieval Ages. In 1999 it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Today it is the only medieval fortress in Europe that was and - still is - inhabited. You think that life today is rough? In addition to the periodic invasions of other peoples, Sighisoara also had to face epidemics of plague, earthquakes and fires. Oh wait, maybe we can learn how they survived. One example of ‘oops’ was in April 1676 when a fire started in the house of a widowed woman who forgot a burning fire while washing clothes. The fire spread to the attic of the house and from there to other houses. So, 70% of the city of Sighisoara burned down. Later, the houses were rebuilt in brick and stone to withstand other such calamities. And yes, we still wash clothes so some things haven’t changed.
Birthplace of The Devil
While in Bran Village, pop up the stairs to see Casa Vlad Dracul where Vlad the Impaler (born Vlad Tepes) was born. In Romania the word Dracul means the devil, hence the origin of the Bram Stoker novel Dracula. Vlad was probably just a cute little kid when he lived here but man - times change. He took a very bad turn later in later, hence the nickname of ‘Impaler.’
Day 4: Dearly Departed and Lies
Sibiu Old Town
Located in central Romania, the city of Sibiu is known for Germanic architecture in its old town, the legacy of 12th-century Saxon settlers. Around the city are the remains of medieval walls and towers, including the 13th-century Council Tower. The nearby Evangelical Cathedral has gravestones in its walls. With respect, I think that putting gravestones into a wall is a great way to save space while also easily remembering the dearly departed (or the ‘thank God they are gone’).
The Bridge of Lies
When you wanted to meet someone for a first date - and your chaperone approved! - you met at The Bridge of Lies. This bridge gets its name because dating apps weren’t the first time that people would say anything (lies, all lies) to get a second date 😀 I do find it appealing that you KNEW it was all lies and so could test the creativity of a future spouse. Count how many people get smacked by their spouse on this bridge because they forgot where they were and said ‘I love you.’
Actually, none of that was true. Due to the fact that it was the first bridge not built on pillars, it was called “the lying bridge”. In German the word “lying" (lugenmarchen) was similar to the word “lie" and thus the locals began calling it the Bridge of Lies which is why the legends around its name appeared. The legend says that the bridge will collapse if someone sits on it and tells a lie. It’s just a bridge but the stories surrounding it are extremely entertaining.
Relaxation
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brașov Old Town and Lounge By The Pools | A Beautiful View and Fine Wine | Calm Your Mind | Spa Day! |
Day 1: Brașov Old Town and Lounge By The Pools
Squeak Through a Narrow Street
Take a stroll through the charming streets of the Brasov Old Town. Admire the medieval architecture, cobblestone paths, and vibrant squares. Smell the coffee and peek into the shops. Get oriented to your home for the next few days. This is a good time to check out places to pick up fresh produce and steaming hot bread. Walk along Strada Sforii—which translates roughly as “Rope Street”— one of the smallest streets in the world. At only 4’ across, you won’t be able to get a double baby stroller through here but the photos are amazing.
Lounge By The Pool
Paradisul acvatic (acquatic paradise) is the largest recreation complex with indoor and outdoor swimming pools in Romania. Even in Winter, you can enjoy the 6 indoor pools, outdoor pools, a lazy river, indoor and outdoor water slides, saunas, jacuzzi, relaxation grotto, massage rooms, fitness room, covered football field, restaurant, and terraces. Laying by the pool with an occasional trip down the waterslide is very relaxing.
Day 2: A Beautiful View and Fine Wine
A Walk With A View
After morning yoga, drive to Râșnov Fortress and walk the perimeter. The view is humbling and will prompt questions such as ‘Why didn’t I do this sooner?’ This is the perfect time to visit because the Fortress is undergoing a major renovation and the inside is closed to the public. That means no crowds! I can feel myself relaxing just thinking of it. You can still walk the Fortress Garden and look out over the city.
Very Fine Wine
Take a scenic drive to Lunca Mureșului to explore vineyards at wineries such as Arad Vineyards. Crafting wine for more than 2.000 years, it is one of the oldest vineyards in Romania and was the official wine supplier for the Imperial House of Habsburg.
Empress Maria Theresa visited Arad Vineyards on three different occasions and was won over by the scent and flavor of the wines. For a little perspective, these were people who knew fine wine. Arad Vineyard wines are still coveted in Europe from Oslo to Vienna, Budapest and Bucharest! Cadarca de Miniș and Mustoasa de Măderat are wine varieties produced exclusively in the Arad Vineyard. One of the benefits of driving is that you can load a case of wine into the car for the trip back 😁
Day 3: Calm Your Mind
Sighișoara Citadel
Drive the relaxing 2.5 hour scenic route out to Sighișoara Citadel. Stop in Casa Wagner for coffee and pastries before heading out to explore the Citadel. The best way to explore is along the northern walls of the citadel where you can admire the view of the Lower Town of Sighisoara. It is far quieter than behind the City Hall! For much of human history, we had hours, days - even weeks - to stare out at the horizon and let our minds be calm. Modern life is filled with noise and distractions (“why is he texting me again?”) which ruin our mood, creativity, and health. Spend the day exploring without an agenda or a deadline. Just be present. You will feel restored and happy as you stroll back to the car.
Day 4: Spa Day!
Belvedere Resort & Spa
Drive over to Sinaia because you booked a full day at the Belvedere Resort & Spa. This place was made just for you (and the other elite spa-goers of the world). People travel from around the world to heal in mud wraps after aromatherapy massages. Wander down to the natural mineral pools that enhance relaxation and provide therapeutic benefits. No one is in a rush. No one is on the phone. Everyone glows with restored happiness. So do you.
Brasov
$: Bistro La Cetate offers a relaxed atmosphere with a diverse menu at wallet-friendly prices. Order the grilled chicken sandwich or house salad.
$$: Sergiana Restaurant is a favorite among both locals and tourists for its authentic Romanian dishes and charming ambiance. Order the Sarmale which are traditional cabbage rolls stuffed with a savory mix of pork and rice and served with polenta.
$$$: Belvedere Brașov provides stunning views of the city with a menu that offers both Romanian and International specialities. Order the lobster thermidor and ask the wine steward to choose something local to pair with it.
Sibiu
$: Hermania is a German restaurant that is popular for its cozy atmosphere and affordable prices, making it a popular choice for both locals and visitors. Order the Mămăligă cu Brânză și Smântână, which is polenta served with cheese and sour cream, a staple Romanian comfort food.
$$: Crama Sibiul Vechi is located in the cellar of an old building of the 15th century, creating a warm (and awesome) environment for dinner. This place is small and super popular so definitely make reservations or be prepared to wait for 4-5 hours. Order the Ciorbă de Burtă (Tripe Soup), a traditional Romanian soup known for its rich and tangy flavor, perfect for warming up.
$$$: KoMBINAT is recognized as the leading place to get local, high-quality, seasonal dishes. The menu changes each season and so it’s focused and easy to choose.
Sighișoara
$: Restaurant La Perla is nnown for its relaxed setting and delicious traditional dishes, making it an excellent choice for travelers seeking quality meals without the high price tag. Order the Papanasi, which is sweet cheese dumplings with sour cream and jam, for dessert.
$$: Casa Wagner is located within the medieval citadel, offering a cozy atmosphere with stunning views. How often do you eat in a citadel? Order the Mici, which are grilled minced meat rolls served with mustard and fresh bread.
$$$: Joseph T. Restaurant & Wine Bar is where you go when you want to get dressed up and splurge on a fabulous meal. Order anything from the ‘Cook Recomends’ menu. Order the oven baked blueberry crepes.
Hungry?
One of the ways that I afford to see everything I want - including shopping - is by eating out of local grocery stores for 80% of my meals. The remaining 20% are typically from $$$ restaurants because, for me, that is part of the experience of travel. This is also true in Romania, where dishes tend to be a bit heartier with beef and sour cream. I am partial to fresh produce but have trouble resisting those blueberry crepes! Going out for coffee and dessert won’t damage the budget and is quite delicious.
Brasov
$$$: Kronwell Brașov offers elegant rooms, a state-of-the-art spa, and fine dining options, making it an ideal choice for travelers seeking a high-end experience.
Location: Centrally located near Council Square.
Pro: Everything is top tier, including the restaurants and spa.
Con: You get what you pay for. This one is expensive relative to Romanian prices.
$$: Aro Palace Hotel is a luxurious establishment in Brașov, known for its impeccable service and upscale facilities. The Suites are spacious and packages are available to include spa access. The large mirrors have me looking over my shoulder for vampires (because they don’t have reflections).
Location: Overlooks the Tampa Mountain and the medieval historic quarter of Brasov.
Pro: Great spa and food.
Con: Onsite parking is limited and quickly filled.
$: ZoZo House offers both crazy cheap dormitory beds and very cheap private bungalows. This is the best option at the lowest price for budget travelers.
Location: Slightly removed from city center with a 20-minute walk.
Pro: Beautiful outdoors gardens to relax and access to laundry.
Con: This is a great choice for backpackers but a bit small for families.
Sibiu
$$$: Hilton Sibiu provides easy access to Sibiu’s main attractions, shopping areas, and cultural sites, making it a perfect base for both leisure and business travelers.
Location: ~2 miles from the Bridge of Lies
Pro: Onsite parking, earn Hilton Honors points.
Con: Slightly remote but it’s quiet at night.
$$: Hotel Casa Luxemburg offers spacious rooms with each room having a unique decor. I like this hotel better than the Hilton Sibiu and it’s less expensive.
Location: Fantastic location - look out your window at the Bridge of Lies.
Pro: Lots of space and still centrally located.
Con: It lacks a spa and expensive restaurant but I can live without those things.
$: Best Western Plus Hotel Hub includes free Wi-Fi, air conditioning, flat-screen TVs, and private bathrooms.
Location: Centrally located a short walking distance from The Liar’s Bridge.
Pro: The apartments and Presidential apartment offer enough space for a family.
Con: It’s functional but lacks comfort for travelers seeking a luxury experience.
Sighișoara
$$$: Fronius Boutique Residence offers very spacious rooms that give you the ambience of a medieval city but with modern conveniences. It features rooms full of character, fitted with antique wooden furnishings, and an outdoor sun terrace. Property also offers free transport from and to the train station.
Location: Centrally located within the medieval citadel.
Pro: Great experience staying in a medieval city. Charming yet comfortable.
Con: They also offer teeny tiny little rooms (“closets”) so pay attention when booking. All rooms are not created equal.
$$: Hotel Casa Wagner stands out as Sighișoara’s premier luxury accommodation. The rooms are quite large and some of the Saxon furniture is over 100 years old. Beautiful!
Location: Centrally located within the medieval citadel.
Pro: Great experience staying in a medieval city. Charming yet comfortable.
Con: The suites are on the top floor, accessible only by stairs. You need to carry your luggage up and people with less-than-perfect mobility may not be able the best rooms.
$: Burg Hostel - the first still existing youth hostel in Romania - is situated in the heart of the medieval citadel of Sighisoara in a XVII-century building.
Location: Centrally located within the medieval citadel.
Pro: Very affordable and great way to meet other young travelers.
Con: Dormitory style is noisy and not suitable for anyone who wants their own bathroom or sleeping area.
Brasov
The Gallery of Art
The Galeria de Arta Transilvania is a great place for those looking for quality works of art, regardless of whether they are experienced collectors or art enthusiasts who want to complete their personal collection. There is a Starbucks at the entrance to fuel your deliberations.
Christmas Market
The Christmas Market is open from December 1st until the 31st, but the Christmas lights and the Christmas Tree will stay until early January. Kids can have fun in the free daily workshops in Santa’s House, and husbands tend to wander into the beer tents. For the little ones, there is also a carousel and a small electric train to keep them entertained. Make sure to bring your appetite because food is everywhere and it is delicious.
Sibiu
During December, Sibiu hosts the most beautiful Christmas Market of Romania in front of the impressive Catholic Church. Small houses made from wood, mulled wine, delicious sausages, cakes and lots of stocking stuffers and gifts will keep you saying ‘wow’ for hours. This market rivals the biggest Christmas Markets in Germany.
Shop for
Handmade Ornaments and Decorations – Perfect for adding a touch of Romanian craftsmanship to your holiday decor.
Traditional Romanian Sweets – Look for cozonac (sweet bread with nuts and dried fruit) and gingerbread treats.
Local Textiles and Embroidered Scarves – Beautiful, practical gifts showcasing regional patterns.
Sighișoara
This small city packs in a LOT of shopping in an easily-walked space. Look for:
Handmade Medieval Jewelry – Crafted in traditional styles, perfect for history enthusiasts.
Ceramics and Pottery – Decorative items with intricate designs, great as keepsakes.
Woodwork – Including hand-carved figurines and small furniture.
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