Espresso Boarding: Reims, France
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Reims, France:
Kings, Champagne, and Twisted Trees
Reims is the land that makes champagne wishes come true. As the sparkling heart of France's Champagne region, history bubbles over from Gothic cathedrals and Roman ruins to legendary wine cellars beneath rolling vineyards.
Whether you're toasting to adventure, enjoying royal heritage, or simply perfecting the art of relaxation, Reims will leave you enchanted.
- Cris
Long Live The King
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims is like stepping into a giant storybook of French history, where nearly every king of France was crowned. The last king to be coronated in Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims was Charles X, on May 29, 1825. This event marked the final traditional French coronation ceremony, as the monarchy was abolished shortly afterward during the July Revolution of 1830. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Its towering stained-glass windows splash colorful light across the stone walls, and its 2,303 sculptures seem to come to life as you walk by. These sculptures include the expected saints and holy people but also a flying rhinoceros, laughing monkeys, and mystical creatures. I imagine that the Project Manager told the workers to “fill in the empty space” and left it to their judgement on what to create. There are so many funny mythical and realistic animal sculptures that it’s referred to as a “magical bestiary.”
From its Gothic spires to the deep secrets of its past, this cathedral feels magical and full of stories waiting to be discovered. I imagine conversations about having rival heads of State “removed” and the ideal location for a new home for the favorite mistress to be carried on as people walked through the halls to stretch their legs.
In addition to being a place of rich history, the Cathedral also hosts workouts called Circuit Of The Towers! The reward for running the 249 steps is a breathtaking (ha!) view of Reims and a close look at the statues that you could barely see on the ground. It’s a beautiful way to offset the calories from all of that champagne.
Palais du Tau
Palais du Tau is where kings prepared for their big coronation ceremonies in Reims, so it's like stepping into their royal dressing room! Inside, you can see glittering crowns, fancy robes, and ancient treasures that bring the pageantry of history to life. The palace itself feels like a time machine, with grand halls and secretive rooms that make you imagine what it was like to be a king. I imagine more than one “king to be” refused a particular golden cup or huge emerald broach because his Father wore it in his coronation and …well…look how that turned out. When you have a building full of options, it’s easy to nitpick over what items will be included in your coronation.
There was definitely plenty of treasure to choose among. One - just one! - example is Charlemagne's talisman. By definition, a talisman is an object bearing consecrated signs attributed with protective virtues and magical powers. Charlemagne's Talisman, a double-sided jewel mounted as a pendant, contains a relic of the Cross of Christ! Legend has it that this reliquary was discovered hanging around his neck during an exhumation in 1166. I have so many questions, beginning with
Who failed to remove it from his body prior to burial? Other people may want to use those magical powers.
Why did they exhume, or “un-bury,” him? Did someone wake up in the middle of the night and realize they forgot to take off the jewelry?
What else did they find?
Meanwhile, in 1802, the Bishop of Aachen presented the Talisman to Empress Josephine, who accompanied Napoleon on a pilgrimage to the city where Charlemagne's relics were kept.
The Talisman was passed on to Josephine, then to Hortense de Beauharnais, who bequeathed it to the future Napoleon III.
Finally, Empress Eugénie, moved by the bombing of Reims in 1914, donated it to Reims Cathedral.
Champagne Dreams
Land of Champagne
Dom Perignon, Veuve Cliquot, Taittinger, Mumm, Moet & Chandon…if these words inspire a thirst then today’s champagne tours will be the just the thing to set you right. There are so many big names here that it would require at least a week to fully appreciate the diversity of champagne flavors and styles. Sounds like a good week to me. These elite Maisons of Champagne describe themselves as “family businesses” (similar to the mob) and “family growers” to downplay their enormous wealth and influence.
These bottles are in almost every Rap song and many other music videos and lyrics. This is the currency of celebration and power. Please don’t follow a tasting with the words “it was ok” or you will see a very French shocked face (and possibly hear some french mumbling which is not complimentary at all)! I have added the 3-day tour offered by Grape Escapes to my bucket list.
Moet & Chandon Cellar
Moet & Chandon Entrance
Veuve Clicquot Stairs To Cellar
Mumm Cellar
Taittinger Cellar
Spa Day
Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa
Did you “possibly” consume too much champagne yesterday? That’s ok because today we reclaim our health. Unique in the region, the 1,500 m² Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa is a destination in its own right. Nine treatment rooms, two swimming pools (indoor and outdoor), hammam, sauna, whirlpools, yoga studio, fitness room and beauty salon are all the spaces you will have access to during your stay. Leave your phone turned off, except to take a few photos. Good health requires a digital detox and this spa is expertly ready to assist you. After your skin/muscles/hands/feet have been restored, enjoy a full day of steam rooms, jacuzzi’s, and lounging without additional charges. And yes, any champagne consumed during the spa experience is medicinal. It’s a restorative.
While normally I would never advise leaving a Spa unless it is on fire (and the fire is near you), this is the exception. Pop on some clothes in the afternoon for High Tea and experience the perfection that cream and chocolate become in the hands of a Master Pastry Chef. Oh. My God. If I wasn’t acutely aware of other people in the room, I might eat every single piece on the tasting carousel and take some back to my room for midnight. That behavior, however, is likely frowned upon.
Faux de Verzy
Montagne de Reims Natural Regional Park
Montagne de Reims Natural Regional Park is like a giant outdoor playground filled with rolling vineyards, mysterious forests, and wildlife everywhere. It’s the home of the famous twisted trees called Faux de Verzy, which look like something straight out of a fantasy book. Adventure lovers can hike, bike, or even zip-line through the park’s gorgeous landscapes. The park is also where the magic of Champagne begins, with vineyards that produce the world’s most famous sparkling wine. Everyone who spends the day here describes it as a beautiful place to walk, bike, draw, paint, or meditate.
$$$: Fine Dining
The Michelin-starred Le Parc Les Crayères is located in a stunning 17th-century chateau and is renowned for its impeccable service and exceptional gastronomic creations by Chef Philippe Mille.
Order: Oyster, langoustine, and lobster ravioli.
Pro: Elegant, beautiful ambiance in a historic chateau.
Con: Premium pricing reflects the high-quality experience.
$$: Feed The Family
L'Atelier - Restaurant Bistronomique offers a sophisticated dining experience with a focus on French cuisine, featuring a gourmet menu that balances quality and value.
Order: Swordfish tartare with Chinese cabbage and Asian vinaigrette.
Pro: Impressive selection of champagnes and wines.
Con: Can get busy; reservations recommended.
$: Cheap And Tasty
Vapeurs et Gourmandises provides a unique take on French food with fresh ingredients, offering a variety of steamed dishes that retain natural tastes and nutrients.
Order: Steamed hot goat cheese with pears and cumin honey.
Pro: Affordable pricing with dishes starting at €7.
Con: Limited seating; may require waiting during peak hours.
$$$: Luxury
The Relais & Châteaux L'Assiette Champenoise is known for its 3-Michelin-starred restaurant and luxurious accommodations.
Location: Situated in Tinqueux, a short drive from central Reims and major champagne houses.
Pro: Exceptional culinary experience.
Con: Located slightly outside the city center.
$$: Family Comfort
The Novotel Suites Reims Centre offers spacious suites suitable for families and longer stays.
Location: A 3-minute walk from Reims TGV Train Station and close to Reims Champagne Congrès.
Pro: Comfortable rooms with modern amenities.
Con: Limited dining options on-site.
$: Clean and Safe
The Hotel Cecyl has a funky Art Deco style with affordable rates.
Location: Located across from Hôtel de la Paix, close to shops and restaurants.
Pro: Charming design and central location.
Con: Rooms may lack air conditioning.
Rent An Apartment
This 2-bedroom apartment is in the heart of Reims, within close walking distance to all points of interest.
Location: Centrally located in Reims.
Pro: Your own kitchen, washer, and dryer means saving luggage space for souvenirs and not waiting for a table at each meal.
Con: There is an extra charge per night if you use both bedrooms. That’s a bit unusual.
Halles du Boulingrin
This historic covered market has funky Art Deco architecture and a cheerful atmosphere. It hosts a variety of vendors offering fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and regional specialties. Visiting on market days provides an authentic glimpse into local life. This is a great place to stock the fridge if you rented an apartment.
Buy: Local cheeses, charcuterie, fresh fruits, and vegetables. It's also an excellent place to find regional delicacies and souvenirs.
Biscuiterie Fossier
You know what pairs well with Champagne? Cookies! Established in 1756, Biscuiterie Fossier is famed for creating the iconic Biscuit Rose de Reims. The shop offers a variety of traditional biscuits and confections, making it a must-visit for those seeking authentic local treats. Your family will be highly irate if your suitcase is not stuffed with gift tins from Fossier. If you plan ahead, you can convince them to pay for your next trip to Reims in order to get them more cookies;-)
Buy: Biscuit Rose de Reims, gingerbread, and other traditional French biscuits.
Champagne Charles de Cazanove Boutique
While Reims is home to numerous champagne houses, the Champagne Charles de Cazanove Boutique offers a personalized experience with a range of champagnes produced by the historic Charles de Cazanove house. It's an opportunity to purchase unique bottles not widely available elsewhere. Very important! Go on Amazon and buy 8 (or so) wine angels prior to your trip. I once watched red wine leak from a suitcase and had so much pity for the poor soul who had their wine crushed on the return flight home. Until I realized that bag was mine. Yes, I cried.
Buy: Exclusive champagne varieties.
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