Espresso Boarding: Provence, France
Provence, France:
Hiking, Medieval Towns, and Van Gogh
This week, we will explore Provence, France. Imagine a place where you can play outdoors and then soak in a lavender bath while drinking some of the best wine in the world.
You can choose your ideal itinerary based on your desire for Adventure, Culture, or Relaxation. These itineraries are handy to bookmark - a blister or torn muscle may convert your Adventure plans into Relaxation plans. Let’s get started.
- Cris
Espresso Boarding sends a daily burst of inspiration for your travel plans.
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Calanques National Park | Hiking and Canyoning in Verdon Gorge | Mountain Biking and Wine Tasting in Luberon | Hot Air Ballooning and Rock Climbing in Alpilles |
ADVENTURE!
Day 1: Hike and Paddle
Start the day with a boat trip from the Old Port in Marseiile to Calanques National Park. Did someone say “hidden beaches?” I picture them storing pirates’ loot among the sandstone cliffs. Hike to the Calanque d’En Vau from Cassis and grab photos of one of the most places in the park.
Hike back down to the shore and swap your boots for paddleboard shoes or bare feet. Go kayaking or paddleboarding in the clear waters of the Calanques. Look down into the turquoise water and spot octopuses, anemones, and urchins but also pointed-snout wrasses, saddled seabreams, and groupers. Watch out for the wild boars if you pull your kayak onto the beach. They eat acorns but can become aggressive and dangerous when people start feeding them. Don’t feed them.
Day 2: The Grand Canyon of Europe
Drive to the Verdon Gorge, often called the "Grand Canyon of Europe," and hike the Sentier Blanc-Martel trail, which is a challenging 6-7 hour route offering stunning views of the gorge and the Verdon River below. Bring cash to pay for parking at the beginning of the trail, and more to pay your driver to return you to your car…unless you plan to hike back out the way you came. No one does this.
Rappel down waterfalls, swim through crystal-clear pools, and navigate natural rock slides in the joy known as ‘canyoning.’ While tours offer fun for all ‘experience levels,’ please know that ‘experience’ is not code for ‘fitness.’ Are you super fit but haven’t tried rappelling? This is your crowd. Are you really out of shape…this is not a great idea.
Day 3: Mountain Biking and Wine Tasting
Today is about balancing energetic fun and a little healing for sore muscles. In the morning, head to the Luberon Regional Natural Park for a mountain biking tour through the park’s rugged trails, passing by lavender fields, vineyards, and ancient villages like Gordes and Roussillon. Tours are available with a variety of bikes ranging from mountain bikes to e-bikes so check your tour description carefully.
Your muscles are sore and tired. Take a break and enjoy an afternoon wine-tasting tour. Provence is known for its rosé wines, so indulge in a guided tasting to learn about the region's wine-making process. Take notes of your favorite wines, buy some to take home, and then sample again at home. Did the abundance of local lavender change your appreciation of the wine? Do not say “this tastes like White Zinfandel.”
Day 4: Hot Air Balloons and Rock Climbing
Welcome the day with a sunrise hot air balloon ride over the Alpilles Natural Regional Park. Admire the rolling hills, olive groves, and vineyards. Marvel (with your inside voice) how “slow” the cars are all the way down below on the roads.
Once on the ground again, don’t let gravity get you down. Head to a rock climbing session at one of the limestone cliffs in the Alpilles area, such as near Les Baux-de-Provence.
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Avignon | Arles | Aix-en-Provence | Luberon villages and markets |
CULTURE!
Day 1: Avignon
The Palais des Papes is one of the largest Gothic buildings in Europe and was home to the Catholic Popes in the 14th century. This is a very impressive and popular destination so buy your tickets in advance - before you get on a plane. As befitting a Gothic masterpiece, neither heat or AC are available so plan for both indoor and outdoor temps.
Picnic by the Rhone River at Pont d'Avignon and enjoy the wildlife that floats past you. As the most famous bridge in France, the Pont d’Avignon actually only crosses a small part of the river. It did cross the entire river for a long time, but when parts washed away in the 17th century, Louis XIV didn’t want to pay for its restoration. He had other things to buy, I suppose.
Visit the Musée du Petit Palais, which houses an impressive collection of Italian and Provençal paintings from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, including works by Botticelli. You would be forgiven for discreetly looking up the word ‘petit’ as the Palais is definitely not small.
Day 2: Arles
Travel to Arles, a UNESCO World Heritage site famed for its well-preserved Roman monuments
Arènes d'Arles
Start your day with a visit to the Arènes d'Arles, a Roman amphitheater that dates back to the 1st century and is still used today for concerts and events. I can nearly imagine the fear that would be felt during ‘Shake It Off’ at a Taylor Swift concert.
Church of St. Trophime
Walk through the ancient streets to visit the Roman Theatre and the Church of St. Trophime, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture with a beautiful cloister.
Van Gogh Trail
Explore the Van Gogh Trail to see the sites that inspired Vincent Van Gogh’s most famous paintings, such as "Café Terrace at Night" and "Starry Night Over the Rhône." Visit the Fondation Vincent van Gogh to see exhibitions of his work alongside contemporary artists.
Day 3: Aix-en-Provence
Head to Aix-en-Provence, a city known for its elegant architecture, thermal springs, and vibrant cultural scene. Start with a visit to the Cours Mirabeau, a tree-lined avenue filled with cafes, fountains, and 17th-century mansions. This street was originally the Instagram of Provence, where the rich and famous were ‘seen’ wearing their fanciest outfits.
Explore the Atelier Cézanne, the studio of the post-impressionist painter Paul Cézanne. This preserved space offers insights into his creative process and the objects he used in his still-life paintings. Gold star if you just imagined a bowl of fruit with a side of skulls.
Visit the Musée Granet, which features works from Cézanne, Picasso, and Rembrandt, as well as collections of modern and contemporary art. After a day of scary fruit and intense skulls, your dreams should be entertaining.
Day 4: Luberon Villages and Markets
Today is a battle among the beauties to see who will earn the title of ‘prettiest town in France.’ They take this seriously so be careful about complementing another town within hearing of the locals. Start with a visit to Gordes, who claim to be the most beautiful village in France. Walk through its narrow cobblestone streets and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding valley. Personally, I would skip touring the inside of the Château de Gordes. The outside inspires awe but the inside is kinda blah. 3 hours of blah.
Head to Roussillon, a village famous for its red and orange ochre cliffs and buildings. Take a walk through the Ochre Trail (Sentier des Ocres) and explore the village’s art galleries and pottery shops. The vase you buy here will bring smiles at every gathering when you get home. Want to visit Mars? You can get a similar experience (with plenty of oxygen and water) by walking through the Ochre Quarry.
Is it Friday? Then visit Lourmarin, another beautiful village known for its Renaissance Château de Lourmarin. Explore local boutiques and visit the Friday market, famous for its local produce, cheeses, and artisanal crafts. This is a great location to stock up on picnic foods or snacks for the hotel if you have a refrigerator. But please only stock up on stinky cheese if you have refrigeration AND plan to eat it within 24 hours. I once carried a bag of stinky cheese on the subway in outrageously hot weather in Paris and earned every.single.side-eye. Yep, I was the jerk who brought the stink.
Relaxation
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rejuvenation in Aix-en-Provence | Lavender Fields and Tranquil Villages of Luberon | Wine Tasting and Spa Retreat in Châteauneuf-du-Pape | Coastal Relaxation in Cassis |
Day 1: Rejuvenation in Aix-en-Provence
Thermes Sextius Spa
We spend today in Aix-en-Provence, a city known for its thermal springs and calming atmosphere. Start the day with a visit to the Thermes Sextius Spa, where you can indulge in a thermal bath, a relaxing massage, or a wellness treatment using local lavender and olive oils. Try a Sensory experience in which hot, cold, herbs, Eucalyptus leaves, and Balinese music are combined to sooth sore muscles and a tired mind.
Cours Mirabeau
Re-integrate into the world with a leisurely stroll along the Cours Mirabeau, lined with fountains, plane trees, and elegant cafes. Stop at a café for a light lunch, sipping on a glass of local rosé wine while people-watching.
Pavillon de Vendôme
Legend has it that this love nest (called a ‘folie’) was built by the grandson of Henry IV for Lucrèce de Forbin Solliès, known as the "Belle du Canet.” This predates the DeBeers marketing campaigns that convinced us that diamonds are symbols of love. I wouldn’t mind receiving the deed to a little house in the country.
Day 2: Lavender Fields and Tranquil Villages of Luberon
Gordes
Start your day in Gordes, a hilltop village with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside that is filled with lavender fields. Explore the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, a peaceful Cistercian abbey surrounded by lavender fields (best viewed from late June to early August). The abbey is still inhabited by Cistercian monks and is considered a symbol of Provence.
Roussillon
Continue along the color spectrum from purple to red in Roussillon, a village known for its colorful ochre (red) cliffs. Competition is fierce among these charming villages as each seeks the title of ‘most beautiful town.’ They will notice when you appreciate their beauty and it’s a good way to make friends.
Day 3: Wine Tasting and Spa Retreat in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
A renowned wine region in Provence, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the ideal location to learn about French wine - from the French! I recommend a private tasting at either Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe or Château La Nerthe that is paired with lunch. Not only will you enjoy great food, you will be awake for the afternoon.
Spa Day at La Bastide de Marie
La Bastide de Marie a favorite because they have developed special treatments that use local ingredients such as a soothing honey and jasmine wrap, a repairing treatment with the gentle scent of Neroli, or a massage with linen pouches filled with salts and essential oils of lavender and pine. As a bonus, their beautiful rooms and suites enable you to spend the night in comfort without racing to your appointment in the morning. Breakfast on the terrace in Provence? Oui!
Day 4: Coastal Relaxation in Cassis
Drive to the coastal town of Cassis, known for its crystal-clear waters and stunning calanques (rocky inlets). Start with a leisurely boat tour of the Calanques to take in the scenery without the exertion of hiking.
Plage de la Grande Mer
Spend the afternoon relaxing on the Plage de la Grande Mer, a lovely beach with calm waters ideal for swimming or simply lounging. While this used to be “the” beach, it’s become rather crowded. It might be a good idea to leave the beach towel at home and stroll along the beach, enjoying the energy of the crowd.
Aix-en-Provence
$: Le Petit Tahiti is a small, unpretentious eatery located near the Place des Cardeurs. Try the tasty crepes, sandwiches, and salads.
$$: La Tomate Verte is a popular bistro known for its creative, seasonal Provençal cuisine and cozy ambiance. Located a bit off the main tourist streets, it offers a more authentic local dining experience. The menu changes each season and so it’s a fresh experience with every visit.
$$$: Le Saint Estève is a Michelin-starred restaurant located just outside Aix-en-Provence in Le Tholonet, offering a luxurious dining experience with stunning views of the Sainte-Victoire mountain. It will be difficult to choose one meal so try the multi-course tasting menu.
Arles
$: The Boulangerie Pâtisserie Soulier is a local bakery that offers a range of fresh sandwiches, quiches, and delicious pastries for a perfect picnic lunch. Personally, I picnic “light” in order to save room for ice cream on vacation.
$$: Le Criquet is a charming little restaurant tucked away near the Roman amphitheater. It’s known for its warm atmosphere, Provençal dishes, and friendly service. Try the "Gardianne de Taureau" (bull stew), a regional specialty.
$$$: L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant featuring lots of vegetables, fresh herbs, and surprising flavor combinations. Trust the Chef and order the tasting menu.
Luberon
$: The Bistrot de Roussillon offers traditional French and Provençal cuisine at very reasonable prices. Try the "Plat du Jour" (dish of the day), often featuring classics like "Daube Provençale" (Provençal beef stew) or "Poulet Provençal" (chicken in a tomato and herb sauce).
$$: Le Carillon is a charming bistro located in the village of Goult, which is less touristy than other Luberon villages. The menu is centered around fresh, local ingredients and changes frequently based on the season.
$$$: Located in Bonnieux, La Bastide de Capelongue offers an exquisite dining experience with breathtaking views over the Luberon Valley. The focus is on farm-to-table cuisine with a creative twist.
$$$: Luxury and Comfort
The Villa La Coste is a luxury resort located amidst vineyards and is perfect for those who want an immersive luxury experience.
Location: Puy-Sainte-Réparade
Pro: Choose from Rooms or Private Villas to obtain the desired amount of space.
Con: If you have to ask how much it costs, then you can’t afford it.
The Hotel Crillon le Brave is set in a charming hilltop village and consists of several restored stone houses. It offers breathtaking views of Mont Ventoux and the surrounding vineyards, providing a peaceful and exclusive setting.
Location: Crillon-le-Brave
Pro: Located in a remote area and blissfully quiet
Con: A car will be required as the location is not conducive to walking or bicycles.
The La Bastide de Gordes offers opulent rooms, a stunning pool area overlooking the Luberon Valley, a luxurious spa, and multiple dining options.
Location: Gordes
Pro: Offers an onsite summer camp for children with their own swimming pool, game rooms, and daily changing activities that include everything from magic shows and treasure hunts, to craft workshops and star gazing.
Con: Dining at the hotel can feel a little like the breaking point in terms of expense.
$$: Comfort For Families
Le Mas des Herbes Blanches is a 5-star hotel that provides a more affordable luxury experience for families.
Location: Joucas
Pro: Options range from a Room all the way up to a Suite with Pool Access. Spa access is included.
Con: Slightly remote, so a car is needed to explore the surrounding villages and attractions.
The Hotel Le Pigonnet is a charming 4-star hotel just a short distance from the city center of Aix-en-Provence.
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Pro: Close to Aix-en-Provence, great for families looking to explore the city while enjoying a relaxing, garden-filled environment.
Con: Limited dining options nearby if you prefer not to eat at the hotel’s restaurant.
Le Mas d'Entremont offers a relaxed, rustic ambiance, an outdoor pool, tennis courts, and gardens, making it perfect for children to explore and play.
Location: Aix-en-Provence
Pro: Ideal for children
Con: The hotel needs to be updated and some rooms are reported to be dark and small.
$: Clean and Safe
The Hotel du Soleil & Spa offers clean and comfortable rooms, an outdoor pool, and a small spa.
Location: Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Pro: Air conditioning! All rooms include a bathroom.
Con: Some rooms are ‘a bit small’ which translates into ‘your closet may be larger at home.’
The Ibis Styles Avignon Sud offers clean, modern rooms, a swimming pool.
Location: Outside of Avignon
Pro: Breakfast is included.
Con: Located outside the city center, so transportation is needed to reach Avignon’s main attractions.
The Auberge de l'Aiguebrun offers a beautiful natural setting with basic but comfortable accommodations.
Location: Bonnieux
Pro: Breakfast and WiFi are included.
Con: Remote location with limited nearby amenities.
Mason du Savon de Marseille
With the abundant lavender and olive oil growing locally, pick up handmade soaps that will bring back memories when you smell them. This is a top tourist gift and so look around in a few shops to determine fair prices. The Mason du Savon de Marseille provides an excellent selection at reasonable prices. Check the markets at Place du Verdon for soaps at a fraction of the price of these shops. The difference? The shops are more likely to make the soaps by hand but this is not guaranteed.
Les Halles de Avignon
Les Halles de Avignon is a covered market located in the heart of Avignon that offers a true taste of Provence. It’s a great spot to experience local culture and pick up high-quality regional products. Open every morning except Monday, the market has a lively atmosphere with around 40 vendors.
Pick up fresh cheeses (picnic), charcuterie (picnic), local wines (picnic and souvenir), olives (picnic and souvenir), spices (souvenir), and lavender honey (souvenir).
Every Saturday from 11am to 12 noon, chefs from Avignon give a demonstration of their talent, preparing a dish created with produce from Les Halles.
Parking is above the market and often available.
Marché Provençal
The Marché Provençal in Aix-en-Provence is one of the best-known markets in the region. Held several times a week (with different sections for flowers, antiques, and food), it’s a quintessential Provençal market experience with an incredible array of fresh produce, flowers, herbs, and local crafts.
Park close nearby so you can drop off non-perishable purchases often. Pick up olive oils, lavender sachets, handmade soaps, Provençal tablecloths, and artisanal pottery.
Vendors are usually happy to negotiate if you are buying multiple items. Repeat after me: “How much for one? How much for two? Maybe. How much for three?” Even if a discount isn’t offered, you are likely to receive a ‘free’ gift as a gesture of friendship. That gift can range from samples to other scents to entire bottles of wine. Make friends by consolidating your purchasing power rather than buying 1 at each Vendor. Bring cash.
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