Espresso Boarding: Melbourne, Australia
Melbourne, Australia: Adventure, Art, Food, and Little Penguins
This week, we will explore Melbourne, Australia. While we could fill a library with all of the things to experience in Melbourne, we will focus on the best stuff to experience during a four-day trip. Have more time? Drop us a line and we’ll help you personalize your itinerary for free.
We get it. You want to relax on the beach but your spouse has planned two mountains for you to hike prior to lunch. These things should be debated before you get on the plane. Don’t ask us for a copy of the insane itinerary prepared by my (then) husband for our honeymoon. Yeah….that relationship didn’t work out.
You can choose your ideal itinerary based on your desire for Adventure, Culture, or Relaxation. These itineraries are handy to bookmark - a blister or torn muscle may convert your Adventure plans into Relaxation plans. Let’s get moving.
- Cris
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ADVENTURE!
Day 1: Bike By Day, Kayak By Night
Keep those legs moving to ward off jet lag with the Melbourne City Bike Tour. With 95% off road on bike paths (and using an electric bike in case you need a boost), this is the perfect way to orient within Melbourne.
Refuel and then head down to the wharf on the Victoria Harbor side of the Community Boating Hub for a Yarra River for a sunset kayak tour. While it might not be obvious (it’s a sunset tour, not a sunrise tour), you will need sunglasses, sunscreen and a change of clothes.
Day 2: Great Ocean Road Trip
Living close to the Pacific Ocean, near the famous Highway 101 in California, makes it a really high bar for me to call someplace else “one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world.” The Great Ocean Road, however, earns that prize with my love. Among the many ways to bond with nature include:
Surfing at Bells Beach: Stop at this famous surfing location and either watch the pros or take a surfing lesson yourself. Be warned - classes are offered for beginners but this is where Pros surf so pay attention to your instructor!
Great Otway National Park: Hike through lush rainforests to waterfalls like Hopetoun Falls. For more adventure, try zip-lining at Otway Fly Treetop Adventures. We typically associate the Outback wtih Australia but the rainforests belong on your agenda.
Twelve Apostles: Take a helicopter ride over these iconic limestone stacks for a unique perspective on the power of erosion. These change over time - proven by the collapse of one of them in 2005.
Gibson Steps: Descend the steps to the beach and explore the rugged coastline up close on this 1.6-mile out-and-back trail near Princetown, Victoria.
Difficulty level: “easy.”
You can rent a car to explore the Great Ocean Road but know that they drive on the left. Coming from England? You’ll feel at home on the road. Coming from the US? It might be worth hiring a driver or joining a group of locals.
Jet lag + driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road = screaming spouse.
Day 3: Up High and Back Down to Sea Level
I love to fly but am terrified of hot air balloons. It was blissful relief that I felt when the pilot said ‘now we’re going to turn off the hot air so you can experience weightlessness.’ This wasn’t my favorite activity but everyone else was super excited- earning a spot on an Adventure agenda. It gets rather chilly up there so be sure to pack a light jacket (summer) or heavy jacket (winter).
Back down on earth, where I am much more comfortable, it’s time to play in the water at Cape Woolamai. Boating, sailing, swimming, surfing, cycling - it’s all here. Definitely check the weather before you go and bring lots of water. You will sleep very deeply on this night.
Day 4: Koala Conservation and a Cruise
Open 7 days a week (magical words for travelers), you can take a guided (or self-guided) tour of the Koala Hospital, including the koala yards, and see koalas being cared for and treated in the clinic. You can learn how to care for and conserve wildlife while taking lots of pictures and repeating ‘awwww.’ Seeing these precious animals in real life will put into perspective why people get so upset when the Eucalyptus trees burn. Excuse me while I grab a tissue.
It feels odd to categorize a Wildlife Coast Cruise in the Adventure category but a quick news search of whales sinking ships changed my perspective. Melbourne is famous for its diverse animals on land and sea. In order to protect those animals, it’s becoming more difficult to get close to them. A Wildlife Coast Cruise is a lovely way to end a vacation with 100’s of photos of adorable sea life and nature.
CULTURE!
Day 1: Outdoor and Indoor Art
When we mentioned ‘street art,’ did you imagine someone in a hoodie with a can of spray paint? You’re close…and really, really far. The street art in Melbourne is part of the appeal of the city. Police protect the artists and their creations - this isn’t a crime! Above, you can see one piece of “graffiti” (street art) that I found mesmerizing for the high level of detail. To me, this looks like a billboard but it’s created with spray paint.
These are the streets that produce the best art and are super safe. Go ahead and have your photo taken with the art, although it’s polite to tip the artist if you take her/his picture with the art. The art changes whenever the artist wishes and so it’s a different walk every time but still completely safe.
Here, you can see me going ‘eye to eye’ with one of the smaller drawings. You definitely don’t want to miss this.
Ian Potter Center
20 galleries across three floors of the Ian Potter Center provide a visual history of Australia from European settlement to the Colonial period to the Heidelberg School, and on through contemporary times.
Did you learn in school that Australia was settled by convicts? This museum tells their complete history (including the scandalous bits).
Day 2: Immigration (hint: FOOD!)
Food and History Tour
Did someone say food? Oh my gosh. Do yourself a favor and skip food for an entire day prior to the Secret Tours Melbourne so you can actually taste everything. By the time we ‘started’ the chocolate portion of the tour, I had jumped into a convenience store to buy a plastic container to save them for later.
The Immigration Museum
Sometimes, the bubble we live in is more fun when popped. The Immigration Museum is a fascinating collection of ideas and stories that represent humanity. This is a fun ‘bubble popping’ experience. You will find yourself smiling and having fun as you explore new ways of living.
Day 3: Strolling on Land and Water
Aboriginal Heritage Walk at the Royal Botanic Gardens
Did you think of a ‘Walkabout’ when this popped on the itinerary? You can blame thank Crocodile Dundee for that branding. The Aboriginal Heritage Walk is a fascinating peek into the rich history and thriving culture of the First Peoples of Australia through identification of significant native plants within the Gardens.
Someday, I will return to these Gardens for two weeks in order to experience more of their programs. For example, everyone walking out of the Forest Therapy experience appears calm and happy. I want that too! When planning your trip, remember to consider the difference in weather compared to your home because it’s flipped. For example, if you plan to visit Melbourne from the US when the kids are out of school for the Summer, then it will be Winter in Melbourne. I think I’ll book a two week trip in January when it gets a bit chilly in the US.
Yarra River Cruise
$ option: Rest your feet for two hours while you see and hear all about Melbourne and (some of) its history.
$$ option: You can book your own private cruise for 90 minutes. If you have a group of 6, it’s actually less expensive per person to rent a private cruise. Are your teenagers acting their age? Stick them on this cruise and watch them sail away. You’ll smile for 90 minutes.
Day 4: Modern Art With A Glass of Wine
Heide Museum of Modern Art
With both an art museum and a sculpture garden, this is one of the creative hubs of Melbourne. Located near Bolin Bolin Billabong, this museum started as a ‘modest’ family home…where poets, artists, and sculptors crashed on the couch after a evening of eating out of the garden and debating if poems have merit. It now draws artists (and those of us who failed art) to explore and create the next generation of art.
Wine & Art Experience in the Yarra Valley
“Should we check out art or wine today?”
Why choose? You can see art from private collections, outdoor sculpture gardens, and selfie-worthy architecture all while debating which glass of wine was your favorite. We recommend hiring a driver for this one because each of the wineries has their best varietals available for tasting.
Relaxation
Day 1: Spa day!
Aurora Spa & Bathhouse
The Aurora Spa & Bathhouse books out months in advance and so be kind to yourself and book an entire day at the same time as you book your flight. Personally, I arrive in Melbourne on day 0 (doesn’t count toward the itinerary) and book the spa for Day 1. Feeling a little paranoid about potential travel delays? Then book it for Day 2 but definitely book before you leave. Their 11-Step Bathhouse Ritual includes mineral pools and hot-cold-rest-repeat healing treatments. You may crawl into the Spa after being on a plane for 16 hours but you’ll walk upright when you reluctantly leave.
Royal Botanic Gardens
After a perfect spa treatment (if you declined the full day), you need to move your legs or everything will lock back up. A free guided walk at the Royal Botanic Gardens is the perfect choice. Get some fresh air and sunlight and banish jet lag while holding on to that beautiful spa feeling.
Day 2: Beach
St. Kilda Beach
Safe, sandy beaches, European patisserie shops, palm-lined boardwalks…it’s perfect. Do yourself a favor and spend the entire day here. Soak up some sun and local flavor while allowing the stress and drama in your life to float away.
Following WWII, St Kilda became Melbourne’s ‘red light’ district. During the 1960s, it became known for its bohemian style and attracted young artists and musicians taking advantage of cheap housing. The suburb still retains its alternative style today and yet is safe for individuals and families.
Were you looking for the iconic bathing boxes? Those are a 10-minute away drive at Brighton Beach. While the little huts are interesting, Brighton Beach lacks the food and shopping that is offered at St. Kilda Beach.
Day 3: Getting Into Hot Water (Springs and Tea)
Peninsula Hot Springs
Taking a ‘tour’ is really just a smart way to get out of driving while also being disciplined to leave after 4 hours. This beautiful natural spa contains hot springs, cold springs, and plenty of places to relax and enjoy the view. It’s family friendly and body positive. No cell phones. No meetings. No interruptions while you remember why life is beautiful.
Traditional High Tea Experience at The Hotel Windsor
The Windsor is the only place to hold the distinction of 140 years of Afternoon Tea service in Melbourne. Serving 11 kinds of tea, including a special blend that is unique to The Windsor, it’s helpful to know that ‘tea time’ is actually code for ‘cake time.’ Order the Buffett and you will find a nearly endless array of options to place yourself into a delightful sugar coma.
The Windsor hosts prominent weddings, celebrities, and events and so you really can’t predict who will be at the table beside you. I once (accidentally!) walked into a Bridal Show at The Windsor…and barely escaped with my wallet. Gold frosted wedding cakes with couture ribbon and sugar pearls frosted with real gold is expensive! (It did taste good, if you were wondering). Attire at these teas is a bit nicer than your beach attire but you can leave the satin gloves at home.
Day 4: Kangaroos, Koalas, and Little Penguins
This is my favorite, favorite, favorite experience in all of Australia (not only Melbourne). I recommend the Phillip Island Penguin Parade Day Trip with Koala Conservation Reserve Visit because they schedule the right amount of time in each location and have comfortable touring buses. You will get special access to places not covered under General Admission. Take lots of photos but please don’t touch the animals. The Koalas can get really sick from human interaction. The Little Penguins will literally walk past you along a path and you can almost hear them mumbling ‘move your big feet…just let me through.’
Special tips for readers of Espresso Boarding include
Bring a phone charger AND CABLES with you. Taking so many pictures for nearly 10 hours will cause you to lose phone charge JUST as the Little Penguins leave the ocean and begin their parade to meet you. I once saw a guy charge $20 (US) to charge other people’s phones and he paid for his ticket before we even saw the penguins. They charged their phones between stops.
Download the app: Penguin Parade, Phillip Island
General admission at the Penguin Parade is for suckers. You didn’t travel all of that way to sit far behind the action. Make sure you have VIP Pass tickets (not Premium). The difference is heart wrenching for people who didn’t think ahead
General admission: freeze on metal bleachers, far from the penguins
Premium: Better because you are closer but still will get jostled and stepped on by other visitors
VIP: Ranger-led introduction and then you walk past all of the other people - who are giving the side eye to their spouse - into a special room (not freezing) that is all windows to see the penguins really, really close. Want to see the view from the Premium area? Sure, it’s included in the VIP. Be careful walking back to the main area because those Little Penguins can scoot in front of you really quickly.
Yarra Valley
$: Yarra Valley Dairy for picnic style meals. If your hotel room has a refrigerator, this is a great place to stock up on snacks. Try the cheese tasting platter featuring fresh local goat cheese, Persian feta, and marinated cheeses, paired with crusty bread and local olives.
$$: Herd Bar & Grill is a favorite among locals for locally-sourced ingredients and a creative menu. The Beef Brisket Tacos are popular and should be paired with a beer or glass of wine (this is Australia - the “sober curious” movement is a bit less intense here). The drinking age in Melbourne is 18.
$$$: Oakridge Wines has an award-winning restaurant offering farm-to-table dining, with dishes crafted from locally grown produce and paired with their wines. Try the Chef’s Tasting Menu which features seasonal dishes.
Phillip Island
$: It takes a LOT of energy to surf and so we pay attention when the local Big Wave Café is packed with surfers. Try their homemade muffins and smoothies.
$$: The family-run Italian restaurant Isola Di Capri balances the need to eat well with the need to spend a modest amount. Try the Lobster Toast with a pizza and tiramisu.
$$$: With panoramic views over Cowes Beach, Saltwater Phillip Island offers fine dining that is ideal for a romantic evening. And yes, sometimes it’s romantic to look at each other and say “I want really good food tonight.” Sigh…true love. They offer take away that can be ordered online so if inspiration for really good food hits after a day of hiking and swimming then you can take it with you.
Melbourne (city proper)
$: Super cheap and delicious Shanghai Street Dumplings at Xiao Long Bao (Soup Dumplings) or Pan-Fried Pork Buns on Little Bourke Street will leave your stomach and wallet full.
$$: The Chin Chin Thai restaurant celebrates the Australian love of life with full-flavor food ranging from Massaman Curry (made with cinnamon) to Kingfish Sashimi with lime, chili, and coconut cream. For dessert, don’t miss the Palm Sugar Ice Cream Sundae.
$$$: Attica, located in Ripponlea, is consistently ranked as one of Australia’s best restaurants. Order the Chef’s Tasting Menu and trust that you will dream of returning. In the mood for a rack of ribs? It will come from crocs, not from cows. The image to the left shows Yoghurt Whip with Boozy Berries.
All locations
One of the ways that I afford to see everything I want - including shopping - is by eating out of local grocery stores for 80% of my meals. The remaining 20% are typically from $$$ restaurants because, for me, that is part of the experience of travel. Items always packed in my suitcase include
Corkscrew: The drawer of corkscrews at home is testimony to how long it took me to learn this trick. Hotels are not guaranteed to offer them ($40 uncorking fee? 🫢 ) and they weigh nothing.
Plastic knives, forks, spoons: While hotels may allow you to borrow these, it’s often easier to bring reusable utensils. “Reusable” is key because you may use them several times on a single trip.
Reusable chop sticks: Asian food is often on my menu and it’s really difficult to eat hot noodles with your hands. I picked up a pair in Japan and now take them everywhere.
Pepto Bismol tablets: Jet lag can kick you when you least expect…like after enjoying dinner.
Reusable water bottle/coffee mug: In addition to the obvious benefit of generating less trash, coffee shops are increasingly requiring you to bring your own mug. They don’t want trash swirling in the street with their logo on it. I prefer the collapsible silicon type but anything you already own will work.
$$$: Luxury and Comfort
The Langham is located on the banks of the Yarra River and offers stunning views of the city skyline and is known for its opulent rooms, high-end spa, and world-class dining at the Melba Restaurant.
Near: Centrally located near Federation Square, Royal Botanic Gardens
Pro: Superb location, luxurious spa, ‘staycation’ packages for children and dogs
Con: Additional costs can be a surprise. They cater to clients who don’t read the itemized invoice.
The Crown Towers offers floor-to-ceiling windows and incredible views of the city.
Near: Centrally located near Federation Square, Royal Botanic Gardens
Pro: Choose from Rooms, Suites, or Villas for the perfect amount of space
Con: Very large complex with noisy casinos
The Park Hyatt Melbourne provides quiet sanctuary with fireplaces, wine & cheese service en suite, spa, and dining.
Near: Slightly removed from city center for peace and quiet but within a 15-minute walk to most attractions
Pro: Many Room and Suite configurations to choose the optimal amount of space
Con: Fewer dining options than the Crown Towers (but I had to really stretch to find a Con).
$$: Comfort For Families
The Westin is well-positioned for families, offering a generous amount of space, and an indoor heated pool.
Near: Centrally located near Federation Square, Royal Botanic Gardens, Aquarium
Pro: More comfort than the price would indicate
Con: Dining options can vary (but you can walk out the door and into any restaurant or grocery store and find food)
The Marriott is where I often stay because it’s clean, friendly, centrally-located and near lots of places to eat.
Near: Centrally located near Federation Square, Royal Botanic Gardens
Pro: You get access to the same restaurants and services offered to the Residences, a luxury apartment building, attached to the hotel. This can score you tickets to sold out events, priority boarding and help with travel snafus such as flight changes.
Con: It’s a hotel. It’s functional but lacks charm.
The Novotel on Collins Street offers a balanced blend of comfort, location, and family-friendly services.
Near: located in the heart of the shopping district, close to the National Gallery of Victoria and Melbourne Zoo
Pro: Wide variety of food options, clean rooms
Con: It’s a hotel. It’s functional but lacks charm.
$: Clean and Safe
The Ibis Melbourne Central offers budget-friendly accommodation without compromising on cleanliness and safety.
Near: Centrally located
Pro: Free tram service to all major shopping, sport and cultural areas in Melbourne
Con: Co-branded with Novotel so pay attention to check-in signs
The City Tempo offers serviced apartments with kitchen facilities at a budget price, making it a great choice for travelers looking to stay longer or families on a budget.
Near: 15-to-25 minute walk to most attractions
Pro: Airport shuttle. Doubles have kitchens and washer/dryer.
Con: Free WiFi in lobby but paid in room. There are also single rooms that lack a kitchen so pay attention when booking.
The Space Hotel is a hybrid budget hotel/hostel that offers private rooms with shared or en-suite bathrooms.
Near: Centrally located
Pro: Very affordable and lots of opportunity to meet other people
Con: Noisy and chaotic with a Spring Break feel to it (this is a Pro for some visitors)
Queen Victoria Market and Night Market
The Queen Victoria Market (Vic Market) is a must-visit as the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere and is known for its vibrant atmosphere, diverse stalls, and a range of unique products.
Arrive hungry because the food stalls should be sampled. I have a sensitive stomach and have never gotten ill here. I “may” have gained a few pounds but they were definitely worth it.
Pick up practical items for yourself such as a leather belt that is made on-the-spot in your specific size. Mine has lasted 6 years - these are great quality.
Pick up unique items. I brought back several awesome t-shirts from my last trip. This is the best place to find quality, affordable souvenirs such as boomerangs, didgeridoos, and local jewelry.
Take an extra bag and pick up fresh produce for the next few days. It’s top quality.
Pick up an extra suitcase to get all of your treasures home. Always ask for bubble wrap or packing paper if they have it. This will provide extra safety for your treasures in the suitcase.
Pick up Australian outback hats such as the Aussie Akubra hats. I’m kicking myself for only buying one because they are a LOT more expensive in the US - guess it’s time to schedule another trip 😃
Tip: the prices are most expensive on the outer perimeter and drop as you walk further into the market. That belt that I mentioned above? The exact same item was offered at 50% less deeper into the market. Lesson learned.
Tip: Time your arrival for ~ 3:30 pm (15:30) so you can watch the transition from the day market to the night market. At night, live music entertains for free and performers of all types make you laugh. It’s really fun. I’ve never had problems with pickpockets at the night market but I do pay attention because you’re surrounded by distracted people.
It’s expected to lightly haggle over prices. Not into negotiating? No worries. Just shrug your shoulders to indicate mild interest - but not urgent interest - and listen for the price to drop. The vendors are extremely friendly and not aggressive. You can always return to that stall on your way back out if you didn’t find the item at a lower price in another stall
The Block Arcade
The Block Arcade is a heritage shopping arcade known for its Victorian architecture, mosaic-tiled floors, and a mix of specialty shops. While some stores may be on the pricier side, the arcade offers unique shops that are distinctly Melbourne and not found elsewhere (including my favorite chocolate shop outside of Belgium). It’s also just a beautiful place to see.
Bring a strong bag to carry the gifts that you find at Haigh’s Chocolates: An Australian chocolatier known for its handmade truffles, chocolate bars, and unique Australian chocolate flavors.
You will find Australian-made gifts and craft at lot of the boutiques, including unique leather and wooden goods.
Beechworth Honey made a friend’s eyes light up with the selection of honey comb and candy. I typically pick up a few jars of specialty honey and carefully wrap them in wine angels for the trip home. Fingers crossed, nothing has broken in transit.
Royal Arcade
Looking for something different than a t-shirt? The Royal Arcade might be your place. While you sample the various pastries, you will find truly unique clothing and gifts. Please remember the rule: if it took you 16 hours to fly there, buy 2. Life is too short for regrets 😀
Check out the Dr. Seuss Gallery: A unique gallery dedicated to limited-edition artworks inspired by the famous author.
Did I mention chocolate? Koko Black is a well-loved (by me, anyway) chocolatier offering handmade chocolates, truffles, and cocoa-related gifts with a distinctly Australian twist.
Curiosity Merchants smells good, looks good, and brings joy as you walk into the shop. I always make sure that I have room in my bag for something for myself.
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