Espresso Boarding: Isle Royale National Park, Michigan
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Isle Royale National Park, Michigan:
Hiking, Beautiful Scenery, and Camping
As the least visited national park in the lower 48 US states, this is the ideal place to get away and reconnect with nature. You are only a short seaplane or ferry from medical help if needed but far enough away that you can see stars at night.
You can choose your ideal itinerary based on your desire for Adventure, Culture, or Relaxation. These itineraries are handy to bookmark - a blister or torn muscle may convert your Adventure plans into Relaxation plans. Let’s have fun.
- Cris
ADVENTURE!
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| A Ray of Light in an Acidic World | Hiking Without People | Beavers, Moose, and Wolves | Water Levels Were This High |
Day 1: A Ray of Light in an Acidic World
Rock Harbor Lighthouse
Your first goal is to reach the island by either ferry or seaplane. Which to choose? Partially, it depends on how much stuff you brought. Are you planning to camp? Take the ferry. Does everything fit into a single duffle bag? Take the seaplane.
Hike to the Rock Harbor Lighthouse & Lookout for great views. This lighthouse was built to guide ships involved in copper mining. When the copper mining stopped, so did the need for the lighthouse but it’s maintained as a historical site and offers stunning views of the surrounding area. Take a canoe to Raspberry Island where you can warm up your legs by hiking the short Raspberry Island Loop. Explore the boreal forest, a fragile bog, and scenic rocky shores. Paths and planked bridges lead past many unusual plants; including the insect-eating sundew and pitcher plants that thrive in the acidic bog environment.
Day 2: Hiking Without People
Tobin Harbor to Mount Franklin
Tobin Harbor is located just north of Rock Harbor on the east end of Isle Royale National Park. Kayak the calm waters of Tobin Harbor to get warmed up for the day. This area once attracted summer vacationers with its cottages, resorts, and even a post office; today it is a haven for wildlife.
After lunch, hike to Mount Franklin for a 10.2 mile round-trip adventure. Start the trail from Rock Harbor to ascend Mount Franklin, which offers sweeping views of the island. This is one of the best hikes for panoramic views, showcasing Isle Royale's wild beauty. These views and relative lack of tourists are why Isle National Park is a favorite for outdoor enthusiasts. This is a challenging hike that will clear your head of non-important thoughts related to work, finances, or other people. By the time you complete this hike, you will be in a healthier headspace.
Day 3: Beavers, Moose, and Wolves
Greenstone Ridge Trail
You’ll want to wake up early because today we’re hiking the Greenstone Ridge Trail, a 40 mile end to end trail that extends from Windigo Harbor to Rock Harbor, spanning the entire length of the park. The trail mainly follows the top of Greenstone Ridge that forms the spine of the island and goes over Mount Desor which is the highest point of Isle Royale. This trail is designated a difficulty level of hard.
This Is What You Came For
Did you bring someone along who is a little less physically fit than you? Once you reach the 30-mile marker, that person may need a boost. Fun Meter patches are used by Navy Seals, offroaders, and other extreme adventure personalities to remind themselves that they came here for this experience. This is exactly what they trained for. This is fun! Sew this onto your friend’s backpack in advance so you can tell them they have finally earned the patch. It helps.
Daisy Farm Trail
Take the little side loop of the Daisy Farm Trail to see lots of wildlife, including beavers, moose, and foxes. This is protected land so leave only footprints and take only photos. Did you just see a moose raise its head and look very serious? There are likely wolves nearby. This is true wilderness and the predator-prey relationship is intact. Pay attention and don’t become prey. Visitor rarely get attacked in this park but there is always that one person who just can’t use sense and makes headlines. This park is dedicated to the study of wolves and moose and so don’t be surprised by a pack of wolves.
Day 4: Water Levels Were This High
Suzy’s Cave
Feeling a little sore from yesterday? Stretch it out with a 4-mile hike to Suzy’s Cave, a unique sea cave carved by ancient waves 4,000 years ago when lake levels were higher. This gives you a perspective of what Scientists are concerned about with melting polar ice caps. You are also looking at a real example of why people are buying real estate far inland, away from the current shorelines.
Isle Royale is one of the least visited national parks in America. That automatically earns my love because it means that there is lots of space to think and recharge. You are highly UNlikely to encounter someone with one of those annoying speakers that blasts their music. You are very likely to encounter deer, beavers, fox, wolves, moose and other creatures. Enjoy your time here today because we leave tonight.
CULTURE!
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Arrival and Orientation at Rock Harbor | Indigenous History | Shipwrecks and a Fishery | Reflections and Departure |
Day 1: Arrival and Orientation at Rock Harbor
Rock Harbor Visitor Center
Take a seaplane onto the island and head to the Rock Harbor Visitor Center to check for important notices and weather predictions. For example, an alert went out in June 2024 of ‘increased wolf-human interactions.’ Yeah, that sounds important. It seems that the wolves have acquired a taste for human food and are breaking into food storage containers in the campgrounds. You are on an island. Your ability to leave the island is directly dependent on the weather. Is a storm coming? Leave now or be prepared to stay for a few more days. This is probably one of the most informative Visitor Centers to visit.
Visit the old cabins and ranger stations near Rock Harbor to get a sense of how people previously lived there. This park is beautiful due to isolation, which makes these cabins fascinating. How do you truly live ‘off grid?’ Come and check it out.
In the evening, join a storytelling session at Rock Harbor Lodge. Listen to a ranger-led campfire talk about shipwrecks, indigenous legends, and wolf-moose studies. For most of human history, we shared information through stories around the campfire. It’s surprising how natural it still feels.
Day 2: Indigenous History
Ojibwe Tribe
Take a guided hike with a ranger to learn about the Ojibwe's cultural ties to the region. The Ojibwe tribe, also known as the Chippewa or Saulteaux, have historically lived in what's now southern Canada, the northern Midwestern United States, and Northern Plains. Known for their trademark birchbark canoes, copper mining, and maple syrup, they significantly shaped their region for several centuries. Like many tribes, they were robbed by forced treaties with the US. The lack of explicit permission to hunt and fish on their own land within the treaty of 1855 (a clause made clear in the previous treaties) is still affecting Ojibwe today, as they try to hunt and fish according to treaty laws while the state of Minnesota attempts to enforce state laws over the treaty rights.
Day 3: Shipwrecks and a Fishery
Edisen Fishery
The Edisen Fishery is the most intact surviving example of a small, family-operated commercial fishery in continuous use in the park. It was in operation from 1910-1975 and represents a once common lifestyle on Lake Superior. This is not a story of well-run government management. When sport fishing threatened the isolation of the park, the government went through a series of ‘we don’t care how long you have lived here’ shady maneuvers with the Edisen family that were intended to push them out. The government was totally unprepared for the strength of pioneers who lived just fine without government and the couple lived and fished at this site until their death.
Shipwrecks
Lake Superior was a seriously dangerous place for the ships transporting copper and silver. There are 10 (!) shipwrecks at Isle Royale National Park. The discovery of silver in Silver Islet on the Canadian north shore initiated a rush to the area. Many shipwrecks occurred in a three-and-a-quarter-mile strait, and as early as 1872 it had been recognized as a very hazardous passage. Let your imagination run wild. How would your life change if you found silver in a shipwreck? Would this be better than Powerball? Dive to see the SS America which never was really officially salvaged. Please note: there are warnings all over the place that this is not for beginners. No one is coming to save you if you get in over your head (ha!). Experienced divers only, please.
Day 4: Reflections and Departure
Suzy’s Cave
Hike a short distance to see Suzy’s Cave, named after a woman named Suzy Tooker, who summered as a child on the nearby Tooker Island owned by her father. The young Suzy often canoed over to Rock Harbor to play in the cave, formed by waves in an earlier era when Lake Superior levels were higher than they are today. Ponder how your life would be different if your father owned a private island. Make a note to buy a private island for your children (or your dog). Use the short walk back to figure out how to pay for it.
Relaxation
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Watch the Wildlife and The Sunset | Forest Bathing Experience | Stretching and New Ideas | Suzy’s Cave |
Day 1: Watch the Wildlife and The Sunset
Find the Caribou
As you travel by ferry or seaplane to Isle Royale National Park, put ‘do not disturb’ on your phone, stretch your shoulders and breathe in that sea air. This is going to be a wonderful few days. After arriving on the island, go for a stroll along the Rock Harbor shoreline. Become familiar with the sounds of Lake Superior and notice all of the wildlife. Don’t see any animals? Put your phone away!
Watch the Sun Set
The number one regret of visitors to this park is that they didn’t schedule a two week trip. They only stayed for a few days. They didn’t want to leave. They they feel so healthy and relaxed on the island and wished they could stay longer. All evidence points to the healing properties of short walks. It’s how we clear our minds, loosen our muscles and drain the tension from our shoulders. Take a short hike before dinner to Scoville Point to watch the sunset. Dinner will taste even more delicious after that fresh air and beautiful sunset.
Day 2: Forest Bathing Experience
Forest Bathing
Forest bathing is a Japanese practice in which we reconnect with nature through our senses. It involves being calm and quiet in the forest, observing nature, and breathing deeply. Forest bathing can help with stress, boost the immune system, and improve creativity. It can also help you settle your mind and lower stress hormones. Try forest bathing by walking slowly along the Tobin Harbor Trail.
How to do it
Forest bathing can be done for as little as 10–15 minutes, or for longer periods of time. Here are some tips for forest bathing:
Turn off your phone or other devices.
Take a few deep breaths and center yourself.
Focus on what your senses are taking in.
Walk at an easy pace without a specific destination.
Pay attention to your surroundings, stay on marked trails, and wear appropriate gear. Sturdy shoes are a good idea so your focus doesn’t shift to a sprained ankle (ouch). The Merrell Moab 3 for men or women often get the best rating for comfort and traction.
Day 3: Stretching and New Ideas
Morning Yoga By The Lake
Yoga, either gentle or intense, connects the body and mind. Seriously, some of those poses require quite a bit of concentration. It also stretches and loosens the muscles, reducing inflammation, and increasing blood flow. The next time that you meet someone who seems to need more blood flow to the brain, you can politely suggest “have you tried yoga?” Purists will suggest that you wake up before the sun rises in order to watch it happen while stretching. Since you are on vacation, it’s ok to have a cup of coffee and then stretch.
The Hidden Lake
Visit Hidden Lake for a quiet picnic or simply sit by the water to enjoy the silence.
This serene location is ideal for reflection, relaxation, and enjoying a packed lunch without interruption. Lots of people bring a journal with them to capture the ideas that spring to mind when gazing at the lake. Have you ever solved a really difficult problem while in the shower but forgot the solution by the time you finished? Hence the journal. Even if you don’t solve world hunger in your reflections, it can be nice to doodle and draw while relaxing. If lunch gave you a bit of energy, head to Lookout Louise for fantastic views and photos of Hidden Lake.
Day 4: Suzy’s Cave
Suzy’s Cave
The final day of the trip is when most people really regret not being able to stay longer. With 38 hiking trails, multiple day trips by boat, and hundred’s of scenic locations, it’s tough to decide how to spend the final day. We recommend taking an easy walk to Suzy’s Cave. This cave was formed when the waters of Lake Superior were much higher and the waves carved out this cave. You can still hear the waves today - but further away. You are looking at both the past and future while at the cave. I’m going to need a little time to reflect on that one.
$$$: Fine Dining (as defined by a national park)
The Lighthouse Restaurant
The Lighthouse Restaurant in Rock Harbor Lodge is the most upscale dining experience on the island, offering a relaxed but elegant atmosphere with views of Lake Superior. It also participates in the "Catch and Cook" program, where you can bring in your freshly caught fish and have it prepared for dinner. That option pleases everyone - the person who caught the fish and the person who doesn’t want to prepare it. Try the warm chocolate chip skillet cookies for dessert.
$$: Casual Food That You Didn’t Cook Over A Campfire
The Greenstone Grill
The Greenstone Grill offers a more casual dining experience with a varied menu of pizza, burgers, sandwiches, and regional beer. It is known for its outdoor seating on a deck, providing great views of the harbor to wind down after a day of activities.
$: Grab and Go
The Washington Harbor Store
The Washington Harbor Store is a practical option for cheap meals that can be picked up quickly, offering pre-packed meals, freeze-dried camping food, and snacks. It’s perfect for picking up fuel for hikes or snacks when the munchies hit while relaxing by the water.
$$$: Sleeping Indoors With Indoor Plumbing
Rock Harbor Lodge
You may have noticed that all three restaurants that we highlighted yesterday were in the Rock Harbor Lodge. That’s because the Lodge is the center of comfort and commerce on the island. Rock Harbor Lodge offers the most comfortable accommodations on the island, with private rooms featuring lake views, hot showers, and easy access to dining at the Lighthouse Restaurant.
$$: Sleeping Indoors
The Washington Harbor Camper Cabins
The Washington Harbor Camper Cabins are a step up from camping, offering beds and basic amenities without requiring you to bring camping gear. There is no indoor plumbing and bathrooms are shared in a community setting.
$: Camping
Campgrounds
There are 36 campgrounds around the island, including Daisy Farm, Three Mile, and Rock Harbor Campgrounds. Camping allows for total immersion in nature, with many campsites located along scenic trails or shorelines. You need to bring your own gear, and there are no shower facilities at most sites. All campgrounds offer tent sites, a water source, and outhouses.
Rock Harbor Trading Post
This store is perfect for last-minute gear such as maps and first aid kits. It ensures that you’re well-prepared, even if you forget something. They even have freeze-dried camping food and snacks. My sister (once) brought a cake to a camping trip. We mocked and ridiculed her…until it began pouring rain and we couldn’t cook anything. She loved our silence as we devoured the cake like hungry wolves. The Rock Harbor Trading Post does not sell cakes.
You can, however, do laundry here and rent a shower.
The Washington Harbor Store
The Washington Harbor Store in Windigo caters to people staying at Washington Harbor or passing through, offering a combination of groceries, simple outdoor essentials, and gifts. This is convenient for people staying in the southern end of the national park. Roughly half of the store is t-shirt and small souvenir trinkets, a quarter of the store is essential camping supplies and a quarter is nirvana (beer, pizza, sandwiches, snacks). After you spend 4 days camping in untamed wilderness, you will understand the meaning of nirvana (your pizza just showed up at your table).
Dockside Store
The Dockside Store in Rock Harbor sells essential camping supplies but also offers unique souvenirs to commemorate your visit, such as books and themed gifts. A bookmark or a pen might go nicely with that journal in which you saved brilliant ideas and sketched amazing diagrams.
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